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We clean hot tubs so you don’t have to! No matter the condition or state of disrepair, we can get you up and running quickly.

 

Before you call us to repair your jetted bathtub…

Jetted Bath Tub

Jetted Bath Tub / Bathtub Spa.

If it’s a leak, go ahead and call…

If you turn the tub on and hear a hum, turn it back off and call…

However, if you attempt to turn it on and you hear NOTHING, do this first (it could save you $Money):

Normally, a jetted bathtub (or Jacuzzi brand Whirlpool Bath) is supplied by an electrical circuit that has a GFCI circuit breaker, or a GFCI type electrical OUTLET.  The latter is more often what is referred to as a ‘BLANK FACE GFCI’, meaning, it looks like it would be an outlet, has the test and reset buttons, but there are no holes to plug into it.

Frequently, these are found in the bathroom.  If your toilet is isolated from the rest of the bathroom, and it is next to the jetted bathtub in its own room, look in there first!

Otherwise, look for one somewhere by itself in an odd location, like at eye level (to prevent children from playing with it).  That said, I was at a house the other day and the GFCI for the bathtub was about 18″ from the floor – (go figure).

If you have one of these, you need to push TEST, and then RESET.  Sometimes you may need to use something like the head of a pen to push the reset especially with newer ones.  If the GFCI will NOT reset – then I would first recommend having the GFCI replaced before calling.  $20 bucks can go a long way at Home Depot, Lowes, or your local hardware store.  These GFCI’s are cheap and are much more prone to fail on their own, than a pump having an actual ground fault (which is very very rare).

If you can’t find a wall mounted GFCI, then you probably have a GFCI circuit breaker in your main box – it will have a ‘TEST’ button on it.

Cutler-Hammer GFCI

These things can be a little tricky. A standard Cutler-Hammer GFCI (Tan/Brown colored handles), will absolutely shut the handle back to the off position when they trip.

Standard GFCI Circuit Breaker

But others, such as GE, Siemens, Eaton etc, will not.  If one of these is tripped, you can push it on, but it just kind of ‘mushes’ to the on position. If you jiggle the switch handle a bit it may come to rest in a middle position – indicating that it is tripped.  It can actually trick you to think that it’s actually ON, when it is off.

These types of breakers ALSO FAIL. Having seen perhaps TWO bathtub pump failures in over 20 years that would actually cause a ground fault condition – I highly recommend replacing the breaker FIRST.  These breakers are anywhere from 35-80 bucks.

If you can’t get this figured out for yourself or are in a hurry, just give us a call!  Real Estate closings and short timing issues go to the top of our list.

 

One of the greatest tools ever created.

I do a lot of bathtub spa repairs, and on one particular job the pump fittings were faced away from the service ‘port’.  They (pump unions) were almost impossible to get to, and definitely impossible to loosen. There was very little room to put any conventional tools – I mean, anything that would fit, would be too long to even manipulate inside that small space.

Well, yesterday I was at Harbor Freight looking for a different version of a channel lock style pliers, that would have jaw openings large enough, but handles that I could possibly make shorter with a sawzall.  Right when I came up to the check-out counter, the end-cap display had these things:

For like 8 bucks. Hmmm, this looks very interesting- I like the ‘teeth’ on this sucker. The jaws are designed for circular fittings, the handles are SHORT!  It’s an OIL FILTER WRENCH!  I’m guessing this product is new as I cannot find it on the Harbor Freight website.  I put back the channel lock set I was planning to chop up and bought this thing instead.

Once I got out of the store, I got a 1.5 inch spa pump union and wrapped this thing around it. Holy COW! It grabs the outside of a pump union perfectly, the teeth on this tool are fantastic for this particular application!

Little did I know when I went back to this job today how essential these teeth are.  Normally with channel locks, you need to be at a 90 degree angle for them to be effective.  And based on how much access I had there was no way this was going to happen.  Access and difficulty for this today was a 10 on a 1-10 scale and I could not take a picture because it was just too small an area.  So to make the point, here is shown on a later job today how effective these oil wrench pliers are on a pump union fitting, without being at a 90 degree angle:

These pliers grab and loosen/tighten this fitting with very little effort. Here I’m at about 45 degree angle to the fitting and those ‘teeth’ are hanging on to the pump union perfectly.

Another angle.

Without the ability of using this very high ‘angle of attack’ on a pump union in an extremely tight space, this bathtub would have had to been removed just to change the pump, as the left side was the outside wall of a commercial/residential building.

Successful job completed. Thank you Harbor Freight! This crazy oil filter wrench is PERFECT and will forever be a mainstay in my tool box!

UPDATE:

I just checked the Harbor Freight website for this tool. They must be just about ready to publish the product, as the URL comes out as:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-to-4-1-4-quarter-inch-oil-filter-wrench-36778.html

But says the page can’t be found.  So the page is on the way!

What is killing the hot tub business! (Water Chemistry)

I entered this industry in 1996 – as a former electronics technician servicing hot tubs.  Seeing the world of Balboa Instruments and such in a Morgan Spas store got to me.  Unfortunately for me I had never learned how to plumb a garden hose in my entire life, so learning plumbing on hot tubs was my A.D.D. issue for about a year.  Having graduated the school of hard knocks of plumbing – one thing loomed in the back of my head for the next ten years… Water Chemistry. I HATE chemistry. My son takes in in college now and I hate it even more.

What’s worse, just go to any pool/spa store in any town and you will find the it LOADED with TONS of chemicals and all other sorts of things to spend yet another 18 bucks for something else with the back of the bottle in such micro-type it makes an industrial MSDS look EASY! Not only that, but the bottle might be light grey, and the print in medium grey, further rendering the product a useless purchase, especially if you need reading glasses and light to even read the insanity that is printed on these things.

After servicing hot tubs for more than 20 years, the one thing I can say is that the industry is destroying itself with bad chemistry, bad chemicals, and bad advice.

Let’s start this conversation with this photo, from a 1984 Watkins Hot Springs Spa placard, in the equipment compartment I found in my customer’s hot tub two years ago:

How to take care of your spa water

How to take care of your spa water

So basic right?  Why don’t we just eliminate EVERYTHING that the pool store sells for hot tubs, and sell two basic things! Sodium-Dichlor, and Baking Soda.

Now to allay fears of collusion with Hot Springs (lol) Here are photos of this really old Hot Springs Spa, but still working in perfect condition…

1983 Hot Springs Spa Watkins

1984 Hot Springs Spa – Watkins Manufacturing Corp.

Hot Springs Spa Equipment - 1984. Perfect!

An immaculate equipment compartment, following the rules stated by Hot Springs in 1984.

1984 Hot Springs Spa - Hot Tub. Still works perfectly in 2017!

1984 Hot Springs Spa – Hot Tub. Still works perfectly in 2017!

 

1984 Hot Springs Spa - Hot Tub. Still works perfectly in 2017! Inside View.

1984 Hot Springs Spa – Hot Tub. Still works perfectly in 2017! Inside View.

Now, at this point this is where I must chew off my right arm having slept with the ugliest person in the room last night – the hot tub industry. It is a joke. This insanity must stop.  The people at the top (you know who you are) that are pushing for dealers to sell anything and everything to consumers to bolster their bottom line is total bullshit.

I am the dude the real people deal with every single day. I actually used to listen to you higher ups in the industry – for years I did this, and never gave out advice on chemistry, until I got sick and damn tired of my own hot tub’s equipment going to hell because of BAD CHEMISTRY ADVICE!

So, I went back to ground zero, and let me tell you, I had to rewind my brain back to the late 90’s, when I was working with Dimension 1 spa owners, and how they were taking care of their own spa water.  Some were going overboard following multiple confusing instructions from pool/spa stores, and others were not. The ones in the ‘NOT column, had the best equipment condition I had ever seen!

Why was this?

Because they weren’t dumping massive amounts of chemicals into their hot tubs. Simple.

Less chems in your water is better than more. OK?

A hot tub is basically your personal fun bathtub!  But if you keep injecting all types of industrial crap into it it’s gonna be a nightmare and you will eventually end up calling me or another service to fix this or that because of it.

So what’s the answer? Rewind to 1984. Problem solved.

Another post to follow on water chemistry guidelines. This post will be updated with a link.

 

 

Older bath spa leaks, Common Problem!

This is like the fourth in our series of Sealants and Epoxies are your friend.

Below is a photo of a VERY common leak problem in bathtub spas, also known as ‘jetted bathtubs’.

The most common bathtub spa/jacuzzi leak ever

This tub uses the most common type of spa jet – a simple hollow ball with a nozzle.  Where these things most often leak, is from the flange edge that you can see in the photo above – that is visible.  At the junction of where that flange touches the tub, behind that is either silicone sealant, a gasket, or both.  Both is rare.  The customer that owned this bathtub had already removed everything around the tub for full access and diagnosis of the leaking problem he was having.

The solution is simple. Simply seal the area of the outside edge of the jets – all of them! Not just the 3 we had leaks on.  If the other 3 aren’t leaking now, they will be soon. It’s a quick and easy procedure and took less than 45 minutes to perform.

Enter our un-sung hero, Loctite Marine Epoxy – with a paint brush, and pvc pipe cleaner, which is nothing more than a mixture of acetone and MEK.  The small paint brush is used to ensure accuracy of application and limit excessive waste and over-application of the epoxy.

The magic toolkit - Epoxy and PVC Pipe Cleaner

Using the clear Oatey pipe cleaner around the edges of the jet flange and the tub, then drying it out with a paper towel – it ensures a great bond for the epoxy.  This is a really simple, quick and easy repair – I did 6 jets in less than 45 minutes.  Just take your time and use common sense. Typical home-owner repair cost? Less than 15 bucks!

Here’s how it looks!

Re-sealing Bathtub spa jet!

Note that the above photo shows the epoxy applied to the bathtub jet, with the jet insert removed.  In this style of installation, it’s usually pretty easy to unscrew the outside of the jet flange, and remove the flange and the jet nozzle which makes the repair easy.  Once finished, simply re-install the jet nozzle and the flange.  Any questions? Give us a call we’ll give you a hand with this.

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Leaking Bathtub Spa – Hard core problem!

This one was epic. Take a look!

Broken flange on jacuzzi bathtub jetOnce you see something like this – you think, OMG, the tub needs to be replaced – $6000!

Well yes and no. In this particular instance, ALL 6 of the bath spa jet flanges were broken completely off, which begs the next question:

Can the jet flange be removed? (Unscrewed?) The flange is the part that holds the jet body (back part) to the bath tub.  During assembly, silicone sealant is used to seal the body to the tub to prevent leakage.  The good thing about this particular tub is that the silicone sealant was actually holding well, which means a small chance of leaking in the future, as long as the front part of the flange is properly secured to the tub.

Here’s another:

Face flange broken on a jacuzzi bath jet.Like I said, seeing a flange completely disintegrated like this can lead to horrifying expense, but in this case – again – the jets could not be pushed out of their place. The silicone on the back side was continuing to hold them where they were installed.

So – in this case basically we need to provide a sealing surface on the front of the jet – and a mechanical aid to continue to keep the jet attached to the tub.  Enter our hero – White Marine Epoxy.

The solution is quite simple. Clean the cracked surface and the adjacent area of the tub surface with clear pvc pipe cleaner – then with a paint brush apply it around the cracked area and join with the surface of the bath tub.

The magic toolkit - Epoxy and PVC Pipe Cleaner

This is in no way a perfect fix, but if you cannot remove the flanges then it is the ONLY option possible.

Here is what the finished repair looks like:

Repaired Jacuzzi Jet with Marine White Epoxy

Of course this is not an elegant solution in appearance, but it is an elegant solution on the wallet!  It provides for both a water-tight seal for the jet flange and body, plus it reinforces the jet body to the bath tub, negating the need for a removal and complete re-plumb, or worse – a bath tub replacement.

If you do this yourself, the repair’s total cost is less than $15!  Call with questions any time.

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Leaking bathtub spas – Part Two

This is part two of the Sealants and Epoxies can be your friend series.

In this example of a leaking jetted bathtub, what I found was that the internal jet bodies were leaking.  Additionally, it was discovered that this had been repaired in years past, and the silicone that was used was peeling off.  Note these were not cracked jets, it’s just that the internal body parts were glued together and it had partly failed, leading to a very leaky tub.

It is important to note that whenever you use a silicone in a submerged situation like this and it is applied to the surface of a leak, that periodic re-sealing of the area may be required.  IE the more often the tub is used, the more frequent the replacement.  That said, if silicone is used in a joint/flanged situation, as long as it has been given enough time to cure, it should last for many years.

Jacuzzi bath jet that has old silicone causing a leak.

Looking closely at this Jacuzzi jet body it appears there has been some silicone applied at some time in the past and it is visible at the bottom near where the jet nozzle flange is screwed in.

 

 

 

Jacuzzi bath tub jet that is leaking

On another jet, I can see what appears to be some white silicone sealant in the back (between 9 and 11 o’clock in the back) of this Jacuzzi bath jet, and it’s apparent that pieces of that white silicone have come loose also; (not visible in photo).

 

 

The solution is really simple – unscrew the jet nozzle, clean it out, prime it (using pvc clear primer), and add new silicone sealant.

Jacuzzi bath nozzle and jet body assembly - nozzle is removed.This is not difficult for the average home-owner to do. It’s quite simple.  Using a screwdriver in the base of the ring that holds the nozzle, you have to ‘un-screw it. The nozzle assembly will come right out (but you may have to fight it a bit to get it to initially rotate).

The above is what a Jacuzzi bathtub spa nozzle assembly looks like. With the flashlight, you can also see where the previous silicone when it was installed – is flaking out, causing the leaks with this tub.Silicone flaking off a seal joint in a bath tub spa.

 

Here’s a close-up of the Jacuzzi bath tub jet. Note the failing silicone.

 

 

 

Silicone removed from leaking Jacuzzi jet

 

Another jet where the silicone came completely out of the threaded body, causing a leak.

 

 

 

This is how I set this up for re-sealing. Using the dauber for clear pvc pipe cleaner, swipe the internal part of the Jacuzzi jet body and then be sure it’s dry.  getting ready to use silicone to seal a jacuzzi jet.Then I put clear silicone caulk on a paper towel, and use a small paint brush to swipe it into the area where it needs to go to seal the bath-tub leak.

This is actually easier said than done,  because of the density of silicone, but the brush is infinitely better as an initial applicator, than the nozzle of a caulk gun – and definitely better than using your fingers.  The paint brush provides accuracy and cleanliness, which is an absolute requirement when you have to do more than 1 or 2 jets.  I always keep a few of these paint brushes with me because you have to throw them away when you’re finished.

Here is what the removed Jacuzzi bath nozzle assembly looks like completely disassembled.Jacuzzi bathtub jet nozzle removed from the body.

There were no final photos taken of this job but I will say that after the silicone was place where I wanted it to go, I did use my index finger to ‘smooge-it’ in a circular fashion to cover the leaking joints completely.  It works, and it’s cheap to do!

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Sealants and Epoxies are your friend

When it comes to repairing ‘broken’ or cracked things on your tub – because replacing them may not be a viable option, too expensive or too troublesome to do – there are a number of cases where a simple two part epoxy, or even ordinary silicone sealant can be a massive time and money saver.

Bathtub spas, and those that go by the manufactured name ‘Jacuzzi Whirlpool’, are frequently an example when having sealants and epoxies are a serious part of your tool-box.

Let’s take a look at this first example, it is a Jacuzzi Whirlpool bathtub that has a couple of cracked jet bodies.  Many people would think that it would be a requirement to cut out the broken jet, replace it and then replumb it.  But what if just getting access means taking the entire tub out?  Ouch! That can get expensive really quick!

Jacuzzi Whirlpool Bathtub

In this example, you can see I’ve got Plast-Aid, as well as Marine Epoxy (white) you can see on the above Jacuzzi Bath to the right.

20161009_162922With the bathtub spa jet internals removed (only takes a phillips head screwdriver), the cracks in the jet body are easy to locate.

Once found, I prep the area with a swipe of pvc pipe cleaner, ensure it’s dry, then apply an amount of Plast-Aid directly over the crack.  That will be cured in about 15 minutes. Then a follow up with a coating of white Marine Epoxy.

It can be a little tricky spotting what I call a ‘micro-crack’ – but if you can locate the leaking jet body first, then it will give you a target to focus on. Jacuzzi Whirlpool bath with a cracked jet body.In this jet body, that small slotted area to the right (behind the green cement), there is an arched crack that appears in the concave swivel ball (jet nozzle) seat, and stretches across that slot to towards the bottom.

Sometimes, because these things can be really TINY and difficult to see, using a camera on hi-resolution, then zooming in with the screen will help you locate cracks like this. To repair this crack, Clean the area with pvc pipe cleaner (Clear!).  Then I simply mix a two part epoxy (I prefer the Marine White) and use a small disposable paint brush to accurately paint the epoxy over the crack.  Overlap is important and will determine how strong your repair will be.


For the next example, Click Here!

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1 Day Drivers Ed on Steroids

There is an unknown secret in North Georgia when it comes to teen driver safety training.

It’s called http://www.fearthis4life.org  Fear this for Life.  Your Life. Your own kids life in a car, learning how to drive on these dangerous roads that we deal with daily.

It’s a one day program orchestrated by retired Gwinnett County police officer Gordon Fox and Woodrow Gaines.  As a non-profit 501-C3, the mission is to reduce/eliminate teen driving deaths.  This is not your father’s driver’s ed.  It is a one day course designed to introduce new drivers into specific situations that they may encounter on the roads of Atlanta in emergency conditions.  The adrenaline rush I had when my son was going through it was enough to get me to leave the vehicle and let him do the course alone (my foot stomping on floor to hit imaginary brake pedal… aghh!).

If your son or daughter has gotten a speeding ticket or accident recently, they may have been required to attend this course.  But as a recent participant (A Dad of 16yo voluntarily doing this), I can tell you it is for everyone new to driving on the road.

This course will teach your kid to learn many skills, especially learning how to use the MIRRORS!  Imagine my thoughts when my own son told me he never looked at them before and he understands now why they are important.  REALLY?  He’s been driving for almost two years!

This one day course is cheap and worth it.  For 150 bucks, you can get significant peace of mind, and learn really quick where your teen driver isn’t making the cut when it comes to being safe, driving on Georgia roads and highways.  This course where maybe you’ve tried your best, ties the knot where you may have failed.

Get your driving kids in this thing.  It’s one more notch to safe driving practice that they really need. You know as well as I do, that the interstate highways in Georgia are dangerous 24/7.

Best of luck!

TVOC on Facebook:

TVOC – Police Driver Training for Teens

 

 

 

Plast-Aid, Magic Goop Really Does Exist!

This stuff… is amazing.  I use it more often than just about any specific tool in my tool bag.  If I’m out of Plast-Aid, I’m always concerned that the next service call is going to need it, especially if a leak is involved.  Plast-Aid is a repair adhesive/acrylic/plastic that can repair PVC, Acrylic, and anything that the catalyst part of the combo can make sticky.  Now before I give you a sales pitch, take a look at the image below – this is a horrible situation for anyone fixing a hot tub:

2014-12-18 14.44.19On first look, this is the bottom end of a $160 (internet price) filter cannister.  The supposed ‘flex’ hose connected to it, which doesn’t even flex any more, connects to the suction of the main pump.  How did that thing crack off like that?  Lol.  Well… ahem, long story short:  I had to replace both pumps on this spa due to chemistry damage.  The first pump, well ummm after I loosened the coupler to the pump completely, it was literally ‘glued’ to the pump suction fitting and I couldn’t move the pump at all.  So me, with all my bright ideas, decided to give it a good old fashioned kick, to knock the loosened suction pipe off of the pump.  Instead, the pipe on the bottom of the filter snapped off like a match stick!  In the photo above, the pipe is still stuck on the front of the pump!  (No I did NOT kick that part where it’s broke.  I kicked it right at the pump!)

OMG, it’s mid December nonetheless; and it’s cold.  PVC don’t like cold, and flex PVC doesn’t flex, especially when it’s old, and cold.  That stuff is hard as a rock.  Haha.  Well because I had just received my latest order of Plast-Aid, I just laughed it off, but had to look forward to a bit more work than I had planned.  <<<  Now that is something that most could NEVER say in a situation like this.  There would be a lot more 4 letter words spewed out than could be mentioned here.

On a scale of 1-10 of screw-ups… this one rates a 10.  Enter Plast-Aid, it becomes a 1.  Seriously.  Let’s take a look on the repair:

2014-12-18 15.01.19What you see above, is… the pipe is still stuck to the front of the pump (not shown), but I lined it back up with the crack at the filter.

2014-12-18 15.04.08This is the initial application of Plast-Aid.  It is not pretty, then again it is not supposed to be.  This is a repair under the spa skirt, not cosmetic plastic surgery… well maybe you could call it that but not in the ‘cosmetic’ category of things.  I love Plast-Aid.  Did I tell you that yet?

Going forward… Well, Plast-Aid, like any other adhesive or catalyzing compound, loves heat.  Out here it’s really cold, this day in the 40’s.  So I always have a small butane torch with me to help keep things warm around the area.  Note I didn’t say hot.  Never heat anything like this to where you cannot touch it.  It works best at room temperature or slightly above.  There is an art to heating up components like this in the cold, and if you aren’t experienced with it then use a blow dryer with caution.  A heat gun can get you in trouble as you really want to be in the 60-80 degree fahrenheit range and never higher.  Hotter does not always equal better. (Actually, hotter means brittle and we NEVER want brittle!)

Let’s move on to the next photo:

2014-12-18 15.26.34Note in the above photo, you can see more Plast-Aid on top from the initial application, plus a piece of electrical tape on the bottom 180 of the fitting.  That is actually two pieces of electrical tape – taped together to cover the gap between the edge of the street 90 45 degree ell on the right, and the filter itself.  Because I cannot see behind, or below the fitting (and gravity doesn’t do you any favors when working with Plast-Aid when it’s in it’s most liquid state, I create a dam with the tape, to pour it into and hold the Plast-Aid in place during it’s cure-out.

2014-12-18 15.26.47A close-up view of Plast-Aid in action along with the electrical tape dam to hold it captive while it cures on the PVC fittings.

2014-12-18 16.04.43Last One:

2014-12-18 16.13.05

Overall photo of the installation:

2014-12-18 16.13.20Yeah.. that 2.5 foot section going to pump 1 suction may as well be hard pipe. So, the question really is, replace entire cannister, lose a lot of time – or fix with Plast-Aid which is stronger than all that pvc combined?

Honestly, while to date I experience a 100% success rate with Plast-Aid repairs, on everything from cracked wet ends to pvc manifolds, I have about a 75% success rate on first time in and done repair.  That is, the one you see above, I actually had to go back and apply by hand more Plast-Aid on the back side that I could not see with my eyes because there were small areas that leaked water.  Sometimes it’s just repair – by – feel.  The tape dam is not a be all to end all in guess-work.  It’s just the way it happens in the field.  I’m happy that it worked out this way, much better than having to replace the entire filter cannister, which can take as much as 4 hours depending upon all fittings, flex pvc, temperature and everything else involved.

If you ever have any questions about Plast-Aid, you can either call the company that makes it or even give me a call any time.  I’ll be really happy to tell you how fantastic this product is.  It has saved my customers over the years THOUSANDS of dollars in re-plumbing costs.

This stuff, IS magic goop in a bottle.

Other recent repair examples:

 

2015-01-31 13.38.42See that crack on the suction fitting?  Yeah.  I’m out in East Point, and it’s either drive back 40 miles to supplier, pick up new wet end and drive all the way back to put it in.  No Way I’m doing this.  Bring out Plast-Aid.  Fix crack in 30 minutes, go home.

2015-01-31 13.38.53Look at that lovely mess – Plast-Aid saves the day (and me a LOT of  driving time for no reason!).  Plast-Aid by the way, is stronger than the material it is fixing.  There is no other repair material available anywhere at any price that is better than this stuff.  It also saved my customer about 250 bucks.  My customer loved this stuff, and watched as I demo’d the product to him.  (This stuff is fun to show off).

Plast-Aid will, reduce your plumbing problems to a minimum, allowing you to move on to more business, save your customers money, get you more referrals because you saved them money.

Even if you don’t need me to fix your spa/hot tub, buy Plast-Aid just to have it. You can get this product from the same place I do.  Plast-Aid.Com

There are a lot more links to Plast-Aid on this blog than I’d like but I couldn’t help myself.  By the way did I tell you I LOVE Plast-Aid?   There is no better tool in my truck than this stuff.  Get it, got it, GOOD!  It’s amazing.

If you EVER have any questions about this product I encourage you to call me immediately, it doesn’t matter if you’re up north or down south, or out west… call me.  I use it every week and it saves me many hours of un-necessary work, and many $$$ of charges to my customers.  Note that I make no money from promotion of Plast-Aid.  These people don’t even answer my complimentary emails either.  I have no idea who they are but what they got here WORKS, and my business cannot live without it!

Ok Folks, have a wonderful Plast-Aid day!

:^)

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